The Best Of Natural And Man-made Aesthetics: Cartier Jaguar And Complex Craft Timepiece (Part 2)

Cartier presents time in many ways, of which the most representative is of course the Mysterious Clock. It is described as ‘mysterious’ because the hour and minute hands seem to have no contact with the dial, as if suspended in the air. This invention has lasted for more than a century since 1912; although the operating principle behind it has been made public, it is still intriguing and commendable. As for the skeletonized watch that Cartier began to create in the 1930s, the time information and the internal mechanical structure are displayed without a dial. The two designs have always been Cartier’s undefeated classics, relishing, but never seeing any timepieces combine them into one; until this year.

When mechanical perspective
   Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton is Cartier’s first watch that combines the mysterious hour, minute and skeleton craftsmanship, which was officially unveiled at the 2017 SIHH Geneva watch exhibition. With the bridge converted into Roman numerals as the time scale, while fixing the movement parts, it also makes the watch’s breathing and heartbeat looming. This approach can be said to be very smart. After all, without a dial, what could be more suitable as a time stamp than a bridge? The mysterious hour and minute hands are placed on two sapphire crystal wafer discs, which are driven by the outer gears to rotate at a rate of one revolution every 60 minutes and every 12 hours. Seemingly easy, in fact, it is the wisdom of the watchmaker to reduce complexity, turning the hour and minute functions with only two hands into an art of recording time. The case is made of rare and precious palladium, which is slightly harder and lighter than platinum, increasing the practical comfort. Through mirror polishing, it is more beautiful under the light.

Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton Hollow Watch Palladium Case, 42 mm Diameter, Hollow Dial, Mysterious Hour and Minute Display, 9983 MC Manual Winding Movement, Power Reserve 48 Hours, Sapphire Crystal Mirror and Case Back, Waterproof 30 Meter, brown alligator strap.
   It’s also a ‘mysterious’ visual presentation. Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon, however, puts the tourbillon on a sapphire crystal glass disc and uses the outer gear to make it rotate once every 5 minutes. At the same time, the escapement system It also runs at a rate of one revolution per minute, forming a so-called ‘dual tourbillon’.

   However, the best thing about this work is the minute repeater function that all watch collectors dream of. You have to know that creating a minute repeater itself is quite difficult, and considering the sound, sound quality, rhythm and other details of the time report, it is also a number of difficult challenges. In order to strengthen the volume, Cartier uses the titanium material with the best sound transmission effect as the case, with a diameter of 45 mm, so that the sound has enough space to reverberate, and is strengthened through the 4 connection points between the case and the movement. When the hammer hits the gong to cause vibration, a fundamental sound is generated; when the sound emitted by the gong causes the remaining subtle vibrations, a variety of overtones are produced; and overtones are the key to determining the tone color. The square gongs contained in the watch can accurately control the range of hammer hammers to ensure the consistency of the sound length, and can also interpret 8 kinds of overtones, so that time is transmitted in the sound of the reverberation around the beam. As for the rhythm, the inertia flywheel at 7 o’clock is responsible for controlling the speed of the hammer’s operation, so that the timing mechanism is stable. Generally speaking, the inertia flywheel is likely to make a slight sound during the time signal. For players who want perfection, it is a noise; however, the inertia flywheel designed by Cartier can rotate in a nearly silent state, which is worthy of praise.

Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium case, crown set with convex round sapphire, diameter 45 mm, hour, minute, mysterious tourbillon, minute repeater, 9407 MC manual winding movement, Geneva mark, 84 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal mirror and bottom cover, waterproof 30 meters, alligator strap, limited to 50 pieces.
   In the absence of a dial design, all the wonderful skills of this timepiece are presented on the surface. Paired with a noble crocodile leather strap, collectors who are lucky enough to wear Cartier’s watchmaking essence can be worn on the wrist.