Recently, I started a niche watch, Parmigiani’s new Tonda calendar. Parmigiani is a very niche brand in China. Except for watch enthusiasts, the general public certainly has not heard of this brand, and it is a brand for senior players in China. Although Parmigiani has entered China, there are very few stores. 6 or 7 years ago, Parmigiani had a shop on the first floor of Legendale Hotel in Jinbao Street, Beijing. I visited it once, and there was a RICHARD MILLE next to it. Later, the storefront of Legendale Hotel changed. In the past few years, I went to the Yaolai World near the working body. In addition to the car shown downstairs, there were watches on the upper floor, including Parmigiani. In the following years, I have never seen Parmigiani in Beijing.
Parmigiani’s new Tonda calendar
Parmigiani has a relatively high positioning and is good at various complicated watches. Parmigiani’s first-generation almanac was launched in 2011. Now this is only the second-generation new almanac introduced in 2018. The annual calendar, except for February, can automatically identify whether it is 30 or 31 days per month. Adjust the calendar manually. Like Patek Philippe 5146, 5396 are representatives of high-end almanac. In addition to the annual calendar, this Parmigiani also has a retrograde calendar and north-south moon phases. Several functions are concentrated together and it is a complex annual calendar. Parmigiani is also unique in watch design and layout, and has a high degree of recognition.
The top is the 2011 first generation Tonda calendar, and the bottom is the new 2018 Tonda calendar.
The Parmigiani Tonda calendar is available in white and rose gold. This is just a rose gold case. With a case size of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, it is the most suitable size. Parmigiani’s Tonda series is Parmigiani’s round watch series. A major feature of the Tonda series is the drop-shaped lugs. The lugs extend from the side of the case and bend downwards. The recognition is very high. As long as you see this lug, it is a Parmigiani watch. At the same time, in order to lay out multiple functions on the dial, the bezel of the Tonda almanac is very narrow, increasing the size of the dial.
Parmigiani Tonda calendar, Parmigiani watches have a high degree of recognition.
The dial function layout of the Parmigiani Tonda almanac is very special, let’s focus on it.
There are three small dials on the watch face. They are a 3 o’clock monthly disk, a 9 o’clock weekday disk, and a 6 o’clock moon phase disk. The most technical feature is the huge retrograde calendar that surrounds the outer edge of the entire upper half of the dial (from 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock). The watch’s annual calendar function is displayed through the retrograde calendar, day of the week, and month dial. The retrograde calendar is a number from 1 to 31, and the day and month are abbreviated in English. A huge retrograde calendar, indicated by a blue steel hand, with a small red crescent at the end of the blue steel hand. Whenever the last day of the month is on the 30th / 31st, around 12 o’clock in the night, the retrograde calendar will automatically jump backwards to the No. 1 position. It’s as fast as lightning, and it is very suitable for playing.
The Parmigiani Tonda Almanac has a huge retrograde calendar on the half of the dial.
The moon phase at 6 o’clock on the disk is a north-south moon phase. There are two small golden moons (made of rose gold) in the moon phase disk, which represent the northern hemisphere moon (N) and the southern hemisphere moon (S). And the general moon phase table, there is only one moon in the northern hemisphere. Parmigiani’s north-south moon phase is a high-precision moon phase, with an error of only one day every 122 years. At the same time, the starry sky behind the north-south moon phases is made of sandstone, which will have a shiny effect and is very beautiful.
Parmigiani Tonda Almanac
The dial consisting of retrograde calendar, weekday, month, and north-south moon phases is unique to Parmigiani on the layout of the dial. While taking into account the functions of retrograde, annual calendar, north-south moon phases, the layout is neat and beautiful. The reading is clear and the dial has layers. We can see that the moon dial and week dial are at the lowest level of the disk surface; the retrograde calendar is at the middle level; the north-south moon phases and watch hour markers are at the top level. With the combination of blue steel hands and rose gold three-pointer, the watch face is complex and exquisite.
The Parmigiani Tonda almanac, while taking into account various functions of retrograde, annual calendar, and north-south moon phases, is neatly arranged, beautiful, clear when read, and the dial has layers.
This Tonda almanac has many functions. The adjustment of the watch is based on 4 hidden buttons located on the left and right sides of the watch case. The hidden button at 2 o’clock on the case adjusts the month, the 4 o’clock on the case adjusts the moon phase, the 8 o’clock on the case adjusts the day of the week, and the 10 o’clock on the case adjusts the retrograde calendar and day of the week. That is, with a single click, both the retrograde calendar and the week advance by one space. I would like to say one more thing about the hidden button adjustment table. If there is no adjustment pen, a toothpick is a good adjustment tool. Because the toothpick is made of wood, the wood is very soft. Rounding the toothpick head slightly will not scratch the case.
The Parmigiani Tonda calendar is adjusted by a hidden button on the side of the case. The drop-shaped lugs are characteristic of Parmigioni.
Parmigiani’s new Tonda almanac uses the Parmigiani PF339 movement, which is an annual calendar module added to Parmigiani’s main force PF331. A total of 359 parts, 50-hour power with dual springs, fine adjustment of the balance wheel with a non-clamping weight. Parmigiani’s movements are polished and decorated to the highest level. The upper part of the movement is decorated with Geneva stripes, the lower part is decorated with fish scales, and the splints are chamfered. At the same time, the all-gold automatic tourbillon is decorated with wheat ears.
The PF339 movement used in the Parmigiani Tonda almanac. The PF339 movement is an annual calendar module added to the PF331 movement.
I will say a few more words about the movement used by Parmigiani. Parmigiani is a brand of the Santos Foundation. At the same time, Parmigiani belongs to the Santos Foundation, as well as the Vaucher movement factory. So Parmigiani will use the movement of the Vaucher movement factory. Vaucher movement factory in addition to providing Parmigiani movement, even RICHARD MILLE also uses Vaucher movement factory movement, very good. In addition, if I remember correctly, the Parmigiani PF331 movement is related to Longines’ L990 movement in history. At that time, Longines gave up its self-produced movement, lowered its brand positioning, and opened the way for Omega. The L990 movement was acquired by Lemania and evolved into Lemania 8810. It was then provided to high-end brands such as Breguet and Parmigiani.
Parmigiani’s movements are polished to a very high level.
I also want to mention the strap of Parmigiani’s new Tonda calendar. Hermes’ participation in the Vaucher movement factory at that time was equivalent to building a bridge with Parmigiani. Since then, the Vaucher movement factory has provided movements for Hermès high-end watches, and Hermès has provided Parmigiani with straps, so Parmigiani watches use Hermès straps, which is good.
Parmigiani Tonda Almanac
This Parmigiani Tonda calendar has a domestic public price of 244,000, which is relatively high. However, due to the popularity of Parmigiani in China, compared with mainstream brands such as PP, VC, and Lao, the actual price is better under the factors of exchange rate and discount. As a complex watch with both an annual calendar, retrograde and north-south moon phases, it is very cost-effective for players. There is no denying that only those who understand watches will buy Parmigiani, and those who do not understand watches will not contact Parmigiani. Therefore, after playing all kinds of mainstream watches, niche high-end brands like Parmigiani have a very high degree of playability, which is why I bought this watch at that time.
PS. Finally, there is a full set of pictures to verify the body.